So you want to be a knife thrower?  Well, as quick and to the point as can be, here are the fundamentals of becoming a knife thrower.  You'll need to know how to choose a knife, how to grip it and how to throw it. 

Choosing a knife.  The type of knife you choose will have an incredible impact on how much you’re able to enjoy knife throwing.  Keep in mind that quality throwing knives do not have a handle.  The blade is the throwing knife. 

? Size:  Knives that are between 12”-16” are a good size.  They aren’t too big and

not so small that you’d have to throw harder and strain to watch them in flight. 

? Weight:  Knives of the above size will fly fairly undisturbed from wind and

won’t drift so much.  They make a very satisfying sound when they find

their target.  Wait for it.

? Balance:  One of the most important fundamentals of throwing a knife is

controlling its spin.  A good spin on the knife is accomplished by throwing the heaviest

part first.  An unbalanced knife would be your surest bet.  But if you’d like to be able to

throw your knife by either the blade or the handle, choose a balanced knife.

? Edge:  For beginners, as you are, blunt-edged blades are best.  Moreover, sharp edged knives aren’t allowed in competitions or at social establishments, if that’s where you’re headed.  If you really want sharp edges, switch only after you’ve acquired some skill throwing blunt-edged blades.

The grip.  The easiest and most reliable grip is the hammer grip.  As you are a beginner, this grip is recommended until you’ve mastered it.  Hold the knife firmly around the handle as you would hold a hammer.  Lift your thumb off of your fisted grip and place it alongside the blade—this would be the blunt-edged spine.  You are now using a modified hammer grip.  Remember, blunt edges for beginners, please.  Safety first.  You really don’t want to risk slicing up your hands.

Throwing the knife.  The majority of knife throwers are right-handed.  The throw, therefore, will be considered for a right-handed thrower.

? Stance.  Your left foot is about 2 feet in front of your right foot with your weight resting on the balls of your right foot.  Both heels are on imaginary parallel lines.  Both feet are about 45 degrees apart, with your left pointing towards the target.  Knees are slightly bent.  Arms extending in a straight line at chest level, pointing towards the target.

? Throw.  Remember not to move your shoulders during this motion.  The right arm, knife held in a firm grip, makes a fluid arc swing to the sky and onward to the back until the knife is beside your head.  Now swing your right arm forward towards the target, shifting your weight from the back right foot to the front left foot. 

? The chop.  Imagine a large branch between you and the target.  Bring your right arm down as though it were chopping this branch.  Be sure to reach as you chop.  When the knife is pointing directly at the target, release the knife as you snap your fingers back.                   

? Follow through.  Although you’ll be tempted to, do not stop the swing of your right arm.  Follow through until it drops down.  This is very important in your form and, consequently, in the success of your throw.

Alright then.  There you go!  Beginners, have at it!  Practice, practice and practice.  Good luck to you and be so careful!

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ?  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ?  Tests for Sharpness, Steeling, Stropping and Much more

            ?  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintaining and Storing Them)

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com 

A survival knife, also sometimes named a bushcraft knife, may be used for wilderness chores like trimming rope, carving wood, cutting tree limbs, digging, and even skinning game. Its versatile nature is rather helpful to outdoorsmen who cannot afford to be weighed down by a bunch of weighty tools.

Bushcraft Knives vs. Survival Knives

Bushcraft and survival knives are mostly the same thing. Some individuals might say a bushcraft knife is appropriate for a general outdoors situation, whereas a survival knife is created for an unexpected, emergency situation. In practice the distinction is negligible at best and you won't find many knifemakers that discriminate between them.

Further muddying matters is that these knives are also named "wilderness" knives or "camping" knives.

"Batoning" is one task that survival blades accomplish competently however bushcraft blades do not. What batoning means is to apply the knife to hack off larger branches. The person puts the cutting instrument on the wood and slams it into the wood by hammering on the knife's spine.

Blades

Bushcraft knife cutting edges typically be about four inches in length. People with a bigger hand might prefer a longer blade, though a blade longer than than five inches is not typically recommended.

When looking for a high caliber knife, look for one that has a full tang or hidden tang. A full-tang blade runs along the entire length and width of the knife. It is often visible on the border of the handle. A hidden tang knife traces the entire length of the knife as well, however it is tapered when it enters the handle. It is also completely concealed by the handle.

Steel may be stainless or carbon steel. Stainless steel does not oxidize, a huge advantage during exposure to moisture. Carbon steel edges can be easier to sharpen and should hold a keener edge.

Edges can be saw-toothed or non-serrated. Full-serrated edges are not suggested since they are difficult to sharpen, but many blades will have a small piece of the blade that is saw-toothed while the majority of the blade is non-serrated.

A2 is an excellent choice for carbon steel. VG-10 is an alternative popular option. For stainless steel, some excellent options include 440C or AUS8.

Handles

A survival knife handle should be robust, comfortable and be secure in all climate conditions. Micarta and stag bone are popular selections. Leather grips are popular as well, though might not be the optimal choice in a constantly damp climate.

Knives of this type typically do not possess any sort of hand protection, since they are not meant for the in-and-out movement of sawing, but instead for the up-and-down movement of slicing.

You can hide small gear in the tool if it has a hollow handle and a removable lid, such as strike-anywhere matches. This type of design makes the knife prone to wear, though, so is not a good choice.

Complementary Knives

Survival blades are adaptable, but they aren't designed to be all-purpose blades. If you want to turn, wrest, or ***** an item with the knife, this sort of knife may be prone to damage. A multi-tool is a superior pick for those types of duties, and it makes an ideal counterpart to a survival knife.

If your task requires a heavier-duty knife, opt for a machete or an ax.

Brands

Many significant knife makers make a knife in this category. Popular options include knives from Fallkniven, Bark River Knife and Tool, and Ontario Knife Company.

More Info

For an introduction to survival tasks, check out the Wikipedia. It's succinct, but an acceptable starting point. Wikipedia also has a decent site on survival knives.