Knives were one of the first kinds of tools developed by early humans and although they are most commonly thought of as weapons they are still used as tools. Take a look at this guide to the most commonly used tool-knives.

Retractable Blade Utility Knife

This is a general-use tool designed to cut materials such as drywall, cardboard boxes, laminates and plastic. The blade retracts into the body of the knife for safer operation and storage.

Some models have up to 3 different blade positions for different cutting depths. Higher-end models have rubber grips and ergonomic designs for better gripping.

The handle generally unscrews or swivels open to permit blade changes. Many models have extra blade storage in the handle and some models have spring-loaded blades that automatically retract when the knife is released.

Fixed Blade Utility Knife

The blade on these knives locks between the halves of the knife to provide more blade stability than retractable models. The handle generally unscrews or swivels open to permit blade changes. As with retractable knives, higher-end models have rubber grips and ergonomic designs for better gripping. Unlike retractable knives, these knives accept larger or special-purpose blades that can't retract into the handle.

Snap Blade Knife

The blade sections snap off (generally between 8 and 13 per blade) without having to open the tool to change blades. They are generally used for cutting light- and medium-duty materials such as wallpaper, rubber, vinyl and leather, or materials with adhesive backing that will stick to the blade and prevent sharp, accurate cutting.

Carpet Knife

Carpet knives are designed for trimming and cutting carpet and other flooring materials. Their angular design provides easier access to hard-to-reach places. Many models feature retractable blades and blade storage in handle.

The Precision Knife

This is a pencil-sized tool used for precision cutting of lightweight materials, such as paper or poster board. It is also called a hobby knife or X-Acto knife. It is equipped with ultra-sharp blades made from surgical steel and the blades come in a variety of sizes and in triangle and curved shapes. These knives contain a built-in chuck to hold and secure the blades. Some models feature blade storage in the handle.

Cooking Knives

Cooking knives comes in many shapes and sizes and are designed for specific tasks. Selecting the knife you need depends on your culinary experience, the style of cooking you prefer and how much money you wish to spend. Here is a list of the common types of knives and the basic purpose behind their design:

Boning Knife: It has a 4-5" blade and is a flexible knife for separating meat from the bone. This knife is more efficient for this purpose than a rigid knife

Bread Knife: With a 9" blade these knives have sharp, scalloped blades that "bite" the bread without squashing the loaf.

Chef's Knife: Sporting a 4-12" blade, these versatile knives serve a variety of purposes but are particularly suited to chopping and dicing. When buying a chef's knife you should select a blade length that is comfortable for you.

Cleaver: With a strong 6" blade the cleaver chops through bones and joints. You can even use the flat side of the cleaver to crush peppercorns and other spices.

Fish Filet: It has a 7" blade. This thin, long blade has great flexibility and is perfectly suited for filleting fish. It is a superior tool.

Ham Slicer: With a 10" blade it has been specifically designed for slicing through the unique texture of a ham.

Oriental Cleaver: It has a 7" blade and it's called a "cleaver" but it's really a fine chopper and dicer of vegetables, herbs, meats and fruits. It is not to be used to chop bones.

Paring Knife: It has a 3-4" blade and is the most commonly used knife in the kitchen. It is used primarily for hand-held tasks when control is essential. Variations of this knife include the Bird's Beak which is designed for peeling small round fruits and vegetables.

Salmon Slicer: It has a 12" blade. This long thin and exceptionally flexible blade is designed for slicing smoked salmon.

Slicer/Carver: An 8-10" blade that is used for carving paper-thin slices of meats, fruits and vegetables. The pointed tip cuts around bones or pieces of melon.

Steak Knife: With a 5" blade this sharp knife cuts through thick steaks and chops. It is designed to be an integral part of any place setting

Tomato/Bagel Knife: This serrated knife has a 5" blade and is great for cutting something that's soft on the inside and tough on the outside, like a tomato or a bagel!

Utility Knife: With a 6" blade it is a cross between a paring and chef's knife. This all-purpose knife is designed for a variety of everyday tasks

There you have it. These are the most common knives that we use as tools in our everyday life.

Flirting is one of the most common social means of communication, wherein men and women engage in the exchange of subtle cues to get noticed and appreciated.

Humans resort to display flirting body language to appease themselves with the idea that they are acceptable and desirable. No matter how much we deny it, within every individual is a yearning to be liked.

Shown in different perspectives and levels, flirting body language may manifest in the form of both random gestures and the most complex and seemingly reversed types of actions that usually come with socializing.

Usually, flirting is not bad in itself if done in a harmless and sociable manner. In addition, it may be considered as it is by just spending time with someone.

Flirting in this concept may be defined as accommodating the idea of accepting a person, and not because of a romantic objective by which it is often misconceived.

However, the heart is also set to confuse the mind, especially when any of the flirting body language is constantly offered to a person. More often than not, the personal make up of each individual is set to seek an ever-insatiable need for attention and acceptance.

This places flirting from a point of casual friendship to a deeper sense of affection. An unwary mind would often spell disaster as you fall into the pit called infatuation.

You could be sending someone the wrong signals; or you might be misinterpreting another's. Thus, in order to avoid the embarrassment, and possibly the heartache, you will need to know how to read flirting body language effectively.

Eye Magnet

Simple eye contact may indicate the start of a more engaging interaction. It begins with being able to establish a connection, even by just exchanging a glance or, if you may, a stare.

In a deeper level, the eyes are able to convey what mere words cannot express. In a properly set environment, a steady and softly expressed gaze may be readily interpreted by the other person as romantic and may send mixed signals. Even batting an eyelash more than three times in one second can be interpreted as inviting.

Touch

Flirting body language can also be conveyed through touch. Done too aggressively, it can make the other person feel threatened and invaded; when done too lightly, you could fail in sending out the right message.

Touch is more complex than we think because we don’t know what parts of the body are more susceptible for the acceptance of subtle gestures.

Think of it this way: A person is like a fort -- he has to know what areas are relatively weak or least guarded. If you want things to go in your favor, you must target these key touch points to win.

Attention

Attention is one of the most subtle but successful forms of flirting. It takes time to get another person's attention, and having it can give you the power to change another individual's mind. However, this can also be very misleading, especially if the person falls for it and you had not intended on offering mutual consideration.

Flirting body language is a double-edged sword; which means it may also backfire on the one doing it. In short, you might find yourself falling into your own trap. Nevertheless, unless you’re seeking some thrill and complexity, engaging in clean and wholesome flirting is a good way to enhance your social skills.

Fighting knives are a type of knife that are designed to be used for fighting – self defense, military, law enforcement, etc. If you are planning on purchasing a fighting knife, there are a few characteristics that you will want to consider:

Blade Length

Most fighting knives have a blade between 5” and 8" long. This length is short enough to be easily controlled and handles with one hand, while long enough to be effective and deadly.

Blade Shape

The two primary blade shapes used for fighting knives are Tanto and Clip. The tanto blade has an angled point (instead of a curved one) and is primarily designed for stabbing and piercing. A good clip blade can be used for slashing/cutting or stabbing/piercing.

Blade Material

Usually, you want a knife made of a quality high carbon steel. Choose a steel that is strong and holds an edge well. Usually, you will not need to the blade to be stainless steel. Just keep it oiled.

Handle Construction

Fighting knives usually need to have a quillon, or other guard to keep your hand from accidentally sliding up onto the blade of the knife. The handle should be easy to grip firmly and use in a variety of positions.

Price

You don't need to go broke to buy a good fighting knife. Most good knives run anywhere from about $40 to $150. You can find a few for less than this, and there are quite a few more expensive ones, but you certainly don't need to spend over $100 or so to get a good knife. A good example of a popular, quality fighting knife is the US Marine Corp Fighting Knife, which is made by Kabar. You can this knife for well under $100.

Laws

You should be aware that laws regarding knives vary from area to area. You should check your state and local laws before your purchase a fighting knife.

A survival knife, also sometimes named a bushcraft knife, may be used for wilderness chores like trimming rope, carving wood, cutting tree limbs, digging, and even skinning game. Its versatile nature is rather helpful to outdoorsmen who cannot afford to be weighed down by a bunch of weighty tools.

Bushcraft Knives vs. Survival Knives

Bushcraft and survival knives are mostly the same thing. Some individuals might say a bushcraft knife is appropriate for a general outdoors situation, whereas a survival knife is created for an unexpected, emergency situation. In practice the distinction is negligible at best and you won't find many knifemakers that discriminate between them.

Further muddying matters is that these knives are also named "wilderness" knives or "camping" knives.

"Batoning" is one task that survival blades accomplish competently however bushcraft blades do not. What batoning means is to apply the knife to hack off larger branches. The person puts the cutting instrument on the wood and slams it into the wood by hammering on the knife's spine.

Blades

Bushcraft knife cutting edges typically be about four inches in length. People with a bigger hand might prefer a longer blade, though a blade longer than than five inches is not typically recommended.

When looking for a high caliber knife, look for one that has a full tang or hidden tang. A full-tang blade runs along the entire length and width of the knife. It is often visible on the border of the handle. A hidden tang knife traces the entire length of the knife as well, however it is tapered when it enters the handle. It is also completely concealed by the handle.

Steel may be stainless or carbon steel. Stainless steel does not oxidize, a huge advantage during exposure to moisture. Carbon steel edges can be easier to sharpen and should hold a keener edge.

Edges can be saw-toothed or non-serrated. Full-serrated edges are not suggested since they are difficult to sharpen, but many blades will have a small piece of the blade that is saw-toothed while the majority of the blade is non-serrated.

A2 is an excellent choice for carbon steel. VG-10 is an alternative popular option. For stainless steel, some excellent options include 440C or AUS8.

Handles

A survival knife handle should be robust, comfortable and be secure in all climate conditions. Micarta and stag bone are popular selections. Leather grips are popular as well, though might not be the optimal choice in a constantly damp climate.

Knives of this type typically do not possess any sort of hand protection, since they are not meant for the in-and-out movement of sawing, but instead for the up-and-down movement of slicing.

You can hide small gear in the tool if it has a hollow handle and a removable lid, such as strike-anywhere matches. This type of design makes the knife prone to wear, though, so is not a good choice.

Complementary Knives

Survival blades are adaptable, but they aren't designed to be all-purpose blades. If you want to turn, wrest, or ***** an item with the knife, this sort of knife may be prone to damage. A multi-tool is a superior pick for those types of duties, and it makes an ideal counterpart to a survival knife.

If your task requires a heavier-duty knife, opt for a machete or an ax.

Brands

Many significant knife makers make a knife in this category. Popular options include knives from Fallkniven, Bark River Knife and Tool, and Ontario Knife Company.

More Info

For an introduction to survival tasks, check out the Wikipedia. It's succinct, but an acceptable starting point. Wikipedia also has a decent site on survival knives.